Kargil Diary

At Jozila Pass, while going to Kargil

Some places become famous/ notorious for a particular reason. Kargil became famous because of 1999 war. As a non-enthusiastic traveller, I probably never thought of visiting that place, but as an experience seeker, I usually don’t let an opportunity go away.

As part of the Digital India workshop in 120 universities across India, University of Kashmir was one of the venues. However, the 3.5 month long curfew stopped all possibilities of organizing the workshop. I don’t remember how the idea of organizing the workshop in one of the affiliated colleges- Government Degree College, Kargil came up. I pushed this proposal like anything. Then how my name got featured as proposed traveller to Kargil in between the IITF work and Maharashtra workshop is another story.

There were so many learning, plus breaking of stereotypes that I thought a blog is a must. Apart from staying in a house-boat , watching treeless hills, standing in snowfall, there were many others. Let me start with the Kargil.

Kargil:

1.       The concept greater Ladakh – including kargil, Leh, ladakh, Gilgit, Balistan and Tibet. So, three countries are basically oppressing the idea of Greater Ladakh. But indigenous Ladakhis like Dr. Hussain still believes in that concept and inssallah, he would succeed in his wish some day.

At Kargil War memorial at Drass, district-Kargil

2.       Have you wondered why Leh-Ladakh , a Buddhist dominated area falls under a Muslim majority area of J&K? Have you wondered why the Mongolian looking people are named as  Hussain or Fatema? I learnt, this whole population was Biddhist with Mongolian looking people (one Chromosome less, as per Shaila). Then the Muslim Imams started converting these people, they reached Kargil, but could not reach Leh. That’s why you see Mongolian Muslim in Kargil, but Mongolian Buddhist in Leh, although both the areas are same from in most aspects. For the other interesting Aryan story of Ladakha, please read here: http://www.aljazeera.com/indepth/inpictures/2014/06/pictures-last-aryans-201462383426222465.html

3.       After reading ‘Freedom in Midnight’, I always wondered how difficult would have been the work of Cyril Radcliffe in drawing the boundary between India and Pakistan. Dr. Hussain took us to the Pakistan border. There are multiple mountains and both countries have agreed to treat o

ne valley as a boundary after Shimla treaty. There is no fence possible. The difficulty got transferred to the Army/BSF who needs to guard that.

4.       Although the 1999 war is famous as Kargil war, the main infiltration happened in Tiger Hill and Batalik region which is in Drass area, around 54 KM from Kargil. The Kargil war memorial at Drass is an amazing stopover.

5.       Kargilis want to be in India; in fact, they don’t have much approval for the separatist movement initiated by Kashmiris. Shia vs Sunni can be another angle in this circumstance, since majority of Ladakhi Muslims are shia.

6.       The Jozilla Pass- what a place !

Kashmir:

1.       Stone pelting- the new form of protest. When I heard about this in Delhi, I was not able to apprehend the exact situation. But when we were running away from stone-pelters, when we were changing all our plans to avoid getting stoned, I can understand how this new form of protest has revolutionized this region in a worst possible way.

At Srinagar Airport

2.       The anti India sentiment is very strong in Kashmir. Inside that, the independent Kashmir concept is prevalent, mainly in the middle classes. I heard from four people – the solution lies in a tripartite discussion amongst India, Pakistan and Kashmir people (Hurriyat). India’s continuous claim of “Kashmir is an integral part of India” seems to irritate them to the core.

3.       The narrative against Indian Army has been designed and put in the minds of Kashmiri people very very strongly. Many people explained me how the stone pelting by Indian Army has injured young Kashmiri boys, how govt has taken around 6000 young guys in custody, how every broken glasses of road side shops are actually broken by Indian Army etc. It seems Army is at fault for everything, and solely responsible for the gross atrocity done upon the innocent Kashmiris. I always believe one hand can’t sound in a clap. However, I find it is almost impossible to make them even think about the other side of story.

4.       How does it feel to live in curfew from 3.5 months? The hotel I stayed in Srinagar had around 400 rooms, and I was the only occupant. Can you just imagine how has been the business and livelihood of the Kashmiris from the low economic strata?

I think a road trip Srinagar->Kargil->Leh->Manali is worth taking. All the best !